Good Bye Cows, Good Bye Horses…

Good bye Scabs 😦

Cow stealing food from a store LOL

Final sunset in Mysore taken from the roof of the apartment building

This is the slum around the corner from the apartment. I took the picture from the rooftop. I hadn’t taken any pictures of it at street level because I didn’t want anyone who lives there to see me taking pics of it in case that would make them feel bad. Gokulam is a very nice place for most of the people who live there but there are still those that have very little.

There was a funeral on Main Street today. The body was laid out on the sidewalk and mourners all gathered around. Drums were played, there was a pot of something boiling. It lasted a few hours. No pictures as that would have been inappropriate.

I fed Scabs a bunch of cookies and gave a big bag of treats to another yoga student who also feeds Scabs. Scabs will be in good hands as he (scabs is actually a girl) has many who are looking out for him.

Kevin and I ran into Sara while out and had a nice visit and tea at her place. It was a lovely way to end my last night.

I pray that my travels home will be safe and hassle free. I hope you have enjoyed my blog. I have enjoyed sharing my story.

I am grateful that I had this opportunity and hope to return to Mysore in the near future, maybe for longer than a month. I am grateful for Sharath, his assistants and the community of students at the shala. I am grateful for the people I have met. I am grateful I had Kevin as my partner in crime and my planking photographer. Caroline was a great shopping buddy and Louise a pleasure to share meals with. Sara makes a good cup of tea and is a blast to chat with. Bonnie, my American friend, don’t be surprised if i show up at your door in Beantown when Kino comes around! I met so many great people. I hope I see them all again.

Meathead Birds at Crocodile Swamp

Today was my final Mysore class, tomorrow final led class. I did not get a new pose and poses arent given out at led practice, oh well it was still a great experience. I will miss this place.

Kevin and I went to the Mysore Lake, or Crocodile Swamp as I have renamed it. There were croc warning signs but not in English so we don’t really know the exact danger. We assumed man eating crocs inhabited the lake, better safe than sorry, we didn’t go for a swim.

There were so many birds. Tons of huge hawks, stormy looking things and Meathead birds. I named them that because they looked like they has a piece of raw meat on their heads. They were a spectacular blue color with a splash of raw meat red on the top of their heads.

After the lake we took a rickshaw back to Gokulam and saw the worlds fattest monkey in the middle of street. I screamed, the driver laughed at me. Who will the Indians laugh at when I’m gone? I didn’t get a picture so you will just have to believe me, it was the fattest monkey ever or it was prego with quadruplets.

Next we stopped at the chocolate ladies house so i could pick up two bags of coffee chocolates as a gift for my wonderful husband. (this is important info for what happened a little later in the evening)

I decided to get a throw away phone in case of emergency on my trip home and also a phone is needed to get Internet access at the Bengalore airport and I really want Internet in case I get stuck there a long time. So we went to a phone store and was quoted a ridiculous price. Checked another store and got a less ridiculous price but I needed to submit a copy of my passport, Indian visa and a picture. Insanity.

So off to the coconut stand for pics of us drinking coconuts from the iconic ashtangi hangout.

Fed Scabs on the way home, he likes the more expensive cookies better than the cheapo ones. He is getting spoiled.

As soon as we got back to the apartment I realized I was starving for samosas but too lazy to go get some. I tried to convince Kevin to go with me and I would pay a rickshaw driver to take us the few blocks to the restaurant. Kevin wasn’t budging and then the door bell rang. Ding dong crazy cleaning lady! Kevin was all of a sudden up for a walk. I got my phone on the way.

We came home and she was still there. The apt manager was with her so we thought it was safe to leave them alone. Not safe for my bag of fancy chocolates apparently. One of my two bags was missing from the refrigerator. I’m not accusing anyone but bitch stole my chocolates! And there is no sign that cleaning actually occurred in our absence.

Double Dotted

Today I arrived at the shala a little later than usual but I figured it would be ok because I usually have to wait in a line of at least seven people before I get a spot in the room. When I got there, there was no line and I could see a spot open in the front row. I peeked in but didn’t see Sharath so I just waited until he called me in. He came over and asked me my start time and then told me tomorrow I start earlier, 6:30. No big deal only 15 minutes earlier and it’s my last Mysore style practice tomorrow anyway. Sharath asked if I was staying another month. I said no and he asked me when my last day would be. I said Friday and hoped he would grant me another pose. He seemed to be giving out poses to many students today. I was not one of them :(. Oh well maybe tomorrow.

I went to Chamundi Hill again. This time I took the bus for a total of 35 rupees. When I switched buses at the city bus depot the only seat left was a guy who smelled like shit, literally smell like shit, like he crapped his pants. I sat down and tried not to throw up or have any contact with his body at all. Basically I sat on the very edge of the seat and leaned as far right into the aisle as I could without falling out of my seat. Lucky for me most of the bus emptied out at the zoo which was one of the first stops. I quickly moved to another seat.

The plan was for Caroline and I to meet Louise at the temple at the top of the hill at 2. Caroline was tired so I went alone to meet Louise. I arrived about 15 minutes early and was told by a “helpful” little man that the temple was closing at 2 and to hurry up inside. I said I was waiting on a friend. I decided to go into the temple and take a look around and then come back for Louise. The “helpful” guy reappeared, ushered me to the shoe holding area and then jammed flowers and a packet of red powder into my hand. He quickly ushered me I to the temple and pointed out a few things. Next got to a wet stone thing and I was Instructed to dump my colored powder onto the stone and toss my flowers there as well. Next he dotted my forehead with the wet powder and pushed me ahead to the Hindu priests holding candles. There I was instructed to fan the heat from the candles into my face three times and leave a donation. Next it was onto a priest with a collection plate. I dropped 10 rupees onto his plate and dotted my head with yellow.

Here is my double dot

I went to retrieve my shoes, which I was asked for a donation. I gave 20 rupees, which is very generous, and then I gave my “helpful” guide 80 rupees which was also very generous. He had the balls to ask for more! I said I didn’t understand I just gave him some. He was mumbling about having to give it to the temple and anything else I could give would be nice. I said no and he kept insisting. I asked what he wanted and he gave me the “as you wish” answer. My reply was I already gave you as I wished and that was it all I had left was bus money to return to Gokulam. He then had the nerve to say maybe I could get some money from my friend. Seriously go fuck yourself you toothless bastard, namaste.

Next was on to a pizza cafe. Hmmmm pizza in India who would have guessed it wouldn’t be good. It all looked good but really it wasn’t and very overpriced.

Here is Kevins dinner, tea and a brownie

Louise had a grilled veg sandwich and some potato things

I had a veg pizza

Back in Gokulam, Scabs had a pile of cookies. It looks like the white stuff coating him is actually medicine. It was all over his back today. He seemed happy and lively today. He followed me quite a bit.

I Kissed a Dog Today

No not Scabs. It was a sweet pug owned by Shiva who lives down the street from the shala. Shiva assists students in getting rooms and scooters. His pug was sunbathing as I walked past the house. I asked if I could see his dog and he said yes. I think he is accustomed to students needing some canine therapy. He also has a two year old male pug who is this pug’s baby.

I got a look of disgust from a construction worker working on Sharath’s new house across the street from Shiva when I gave the sweet puggy a kiss on the head.

Up to some shenanigans at the shala

Today Caroline, Bonnie and I went shopping in the city. I managed to not buy anything today except homemade chocolates from the chocolate lady. Omg so good.

Here are some shots from a third floor balcony in the city. I’m guessing there aren’t any building codes here.

Me with one of my favorite Gokulam cows.

Monks! And a cow it’s own ass!

Hello Kitty on the bus back to Gokulam

Parades

Sharath was out of town today so the shala was closed. I got to sleep in. Breakfast was at Santosha (world’s best homemade granola). Kevin and I made a trip o the Hotel Regaalis. Kevin was in need of more croissants and I wanted to check out a jewelry store that was closed the last time I went there. I got a silver Om pendant, it’s a little bigger than I wanted but the store owner took my email address and will try to get a smaller one before I leave. When we walked out of the hotel a very short parade was going down the street, men on horses, a few floats and a bunch of dancing men. It was difficult to photograph but here’s the best I could do.

Next we were off to Lakshipurum to pay some rent money we both owed. Of course the rickshaw driver said he knew where he was going but really didn’t have a fucking clue. He stopped along the way asking various people and eventually he found people who knew.

We left Nagarantha’s house, the landlord’s mother, and proceeded to look for a rickshaw back to Gokulam. As we stood on the sidewalk a rickshaw pulled up . The driver had a passenger in the front seat and both were smiling and the passenger called out my name. I knew I recognized him but couldn’t place his face. The driver I knew was the driver that is always at the shala. The passenger was the coconut wallah who parks in front of the shala every day after practice. I don’t remember telling him my name but I guess at some point I did and he remembered it. The coconut guy was getting dropped off at home so we jumped into the rickshaw and had Mahesh, I know his name now because he gave me his card so I can call him if I need a ride anywhere, drive us to Loyal World. When we got to Loyal World and asked how much he did the “as you wish” thing. I rather a driver tell me a price, it’s cheaper that way.

I took a walk to the internet cafe this afternoon to print my flight info and try to access Schwab’s website so I could place a trade order for a client. As I walked down the street I saw guys with huge smiles on their faces. They crossed the street and asked me if I knew where the Jois shala was. They had just arrived in Mysore, one from Sweden and one from South America. They are practicing at a different shala but wanted to see “The Shala”. I said I was headed that way and would take them there. I love the small town feel of this place. Earlier, as I walked down the street the fruit and veg vendor I go to waved from across the street. It’s nice to be in a friendly environment.

The Internet cafe wasn’t of any help getting Schwab work done. Their Internet browser was too old to support the Schwab site and after a few attempts to logon I ended up getting myself locked out of the site. Now I won’t be able to access until I call Schwab when I get home.

On my way home from the cafe there was a goat parade! A herd of goats were running down the street at breakneck speed. I managed to pet one of the tiny babies it ran past, usually the momma goat is too protective to get near the tiny babies.

I got some baby bananas at the fruit stand. I’m going to miss these delicious bananas!

And yay I found Scabs after three days without seeing him.

Lost Dog-UPDATE Scabs Found

have you seen Scabs? Last seen three days ago at Gokulam coconut stand.

I found him at the coconut stand tonight! He ate a bunch of cookies and had a bowl of water and then a walk back with me to my apartment.

Cramming as much as I can in before I have to leave this amazing country

Today was a LONG day! 6am led practice, extended breakfast with friends, girls shopping trip to the city and then an out of town bus trip to Brindivan Gardens.

Louise, Caroline and I took the bus int the city for some shopping. I got a ridiculously tacky Ganesh picture that changes into three different pictures when you move it. 30 rupees, totally worth it!

We walked around and then got in a rickshaw to the zoo area. There are some good shops by the zoo. The driver asked if he could take us to The Museum Shop. We had planned on going there and if he took us the shop would pay him a commission and give him a free uniform shirt. Next he took us to The Heritage Shop. He didn’t charge us for the ride because this would also give him a new uniform shirt even if we didn’t buy anything. The Heritage had nice stuff but super over priced, maybe even higher than US prices. We bought nothing from the light eyed Kasmirian sales people, even though they tried very hard to part us from our rupees. Next we ask the driver how much to take us to a restaurant. He said nothing because we had helped him out. He asked if we wanted to drive his rickshaw. Hell yeah I want to but someone would probably end up dead so we didn’t take him up on the offer. We each tossed him a few rupees as a tip because he was adorable.

Lunch was at RRR. Thali served on banana leaves! They put down a leaf and then servers come around and ladle slop onto your leaf. When you finish they give you more. We were forced to share a table for 6 with an Indian family. It was ackward. The teen age son played with his phone under the table the entire meal and he had a huge tattoo on his forearm. I would guess he was 15 years old.

This mask is outside a bar. A rickshaw driver explained the significance of it, it represents what happens to your family if you drink too much. Your family will cry blood. He explained it much more poetically but I’ve had a long day and I can’t remember his exact words.

Here is a great city cow picture

Next we met Kevin at the city bus depot and boarded a bus to Brindivan Garden which is about 15 kilometers outside of Mysore. The trip took about 45 minutes and went through some small towns.

Brindivan Gardens has fountains that get lit up when it gets dark. Unfortunately my night time pics aren’t good but here are a few before the sun went down

They don’t charge foreigners extra! rare in Mysore.

There were food and crap vendors on the way in. Scary that people will eat smelly fish off a dirty cart.

Sugar cane and lime juice is amazing!

The return bus trip was 3 rupees less than the ride there. I guess they charge less when the bus has roaches crawling around the floor. Indians do not find humor in my bug scream. Besides the crawling things and the flying bugs, I also had a young man invading my personal space on the bus. He was standing and I was sitting. I’m going to give him the benefit of the doubt that he was accidentally rubbing his junk on me and leaning his elbow on my shoulder.

Long day for all, even the Mysore dogs.

Saturday Market Scam Again

Today was a led practice. Normally Saturdays are a day off from practice but Sharath’s cousin is getting married in Bangalore so he has to close the shala on Monday so he can attend the wedding. Since I am leaving next Saturday I am grateful that he made up the day, I want all the practices I can get while I’m here.

After practice Kevin and I headed to Anoehki Garden for breakfast. I changed up my order today and went for the special Saturday quiche. I was disappointed. The crust was soggy and I left still hungry. Oh well, back to fruit and crepes tomorrow. We spent way too much time loitering ther but has a lovely time talking with Bonnie from Boston.

Kevin was feeling the need to rest today but I needed some excitement so I emailed Caroline and we met at the coconut stand for some shopping. We took the bus to the city and the plan was to go to the Devajari Market for jaggery (pure sugar cane) and scented oils. Along the way from the bus station to the market I was distracted by shiny statues in a store. The distraction caused us to fall for the “Saturday Market” scam. I should have known better because I fell for this last Saturday too. Basically there is no “Saturday Market”. It is a ploy to get tourist to go to oil shops and pay higher prices for incense and oil and the person who brings you there gets a commission. The guy that promised us a craft market was very convincing and his English was very good. He led us through parts of the city most tourist don’t go through. He stopped traffic for us. He told us we were going to his house for chai and to meet his mother. I immediately said we were NOT going to is home for chai. I’m might be “Saturday Market” gullible but I’m not “come meet my mom over chai at my house” gullible. Thank you but I prefer to keep my kidneys and don’t really want to be sold into white sex slavery.

So we get to the oil shop and smell a bunch of stuff, which I couldn’t smell because someone was smoking in the shop so my sense of smell was destroyed. Then I ask prices and he produces a list. I’m guessing it was the white person list not the Indian list. The prices were more than two times the price in the Devanjari Market. The shop keeper stepped into the other room for a second and I suggested to C that we get the hell out of there. We walked quickly back through the alley and onto the main road where we planned to pay a rickshaw driver to bring us to the real market. It was hot and we had already walked a long way. A shop keeper saw that we were out of our element and asked if we needed help finding something. I explained we needed a ride to the market and he said it is only a five minute walk and a walk would be good for our souls. Ok fine we walk and walk and walk and maybe 25 minutes later we finally get to the market.

The market was chaotic, many more shoppers on a Saturday. I found the vendor I met last week and then we started smelling stuff again. I decided on lotus and C got rose and yellow lotus. It took forever for the three brothers who run the shop to pack up what we want. They tell us their whole life stories. OMG STFU and give me my oil already.

Jaggery was right across the way. 5 rupees per block. Bought four blocks to bring home for John.

Next we headed down Devanjari UR Road where we thought there were some nice stores based on driving past last Sunday night. Apparently we were fooled by the sparkly lights. The only stores were Reebok, Benneton and and Indian higher end shop called W.

Next it was off to a hotel that had a jewelry store I wanted to visit. Of course it wasn’t opened when we got there even though according to the sign with the store hours posted it should have been open. Typical. Kevin scored big because he has been crying about his need for croissants since I got to India and the hotel had a bakery with regular ones and chocolate ones. Being the saintly person I am, I bought him one of each.

We rickshawed it back to Gokulam. Four hours of walking around in the heat was enough, we were tired. Stopped at Cubs for some fantastic and cheap samosas and then finally home.

The door bell rang around 8pm while I was talking with Carol. I was afraid it was the crazy cleaning lady. I was wrong. It was a pissed off man named Sunil who wanted me to call the apt manager because he was owed money and the manager has been ignoring his calls for four months. I called the manager and then the manager called Sunil, who was still standing in our doorway. Sunil was speaking very harshly and I was sure he was going to rob or kill us. Kevin saved the day by slamming the door. I guess Sunil went away.

Here are a few pics I took today.

A young kid getting a tattoo. It was a big one! I was scared to get a closer pic because the tattoo man looks mean and he is probably crazy considering he is tattooing children!

Here is a metal store. They sell really cool stuff like handmade woks that are very primitive looking.

Ganesh temple

A bag of flowers at the market

I Did Something I Promised Myself I Wouldn’t Do

Yup I used a squat toilet. My goal was to not have to use one while here. A pot of ginger tea changed that promise to myself. It was gross. Louise tried to convince me it was ok by asking if I had ever gone outside like at a festival or hiking (read this in an English accent inside your head, everything sounds less offensive with an English accent). Not sober was my answer. No I don’t hike intoxicated. I don’t hike. Lol ok I have peed outside sober on a few occasions so no need to chime in on times when you know I peed outside. Great, a whole paragraph dedicated to my peeing habits, I’m sure I’ve lost a few readers.

Besides the squat toilet, today was a bit uneventful. I bought more biscuits for Scabs. While feeding him some biscuits a few other yoga students walked by and said they had just feed him some cookies. It’s been hot out since the rain stopped so on my way to Sanskrit class I brought Scabs some water. I made a disposable bowl out of a folded ziplock bag. Scabs is looking pretty bad the past week. He seems sad and is often curled up in a ball sleeping at the side of the road. He is listless. He will get up and eat but he is following me less. His back skin is coated in something white. I read that a bath of borax will help with mange and I was thinking maybe someone gave him a borax bath but when I looked at pictures of him from my first week he had small patches of white so now I think the big patch of white means his condition is worse.

Today was the final Sanskrit class. I will miss Lakshmish. He is very funny and kind. I love when he does the Indian head bobble and says “totally incorrect” with a huge smile on his face.

We have had a few power outages today so when the lights just went off I didn’t think anything of it until Carol knocked on my door and said everyone else has lights. I don’t know anything about fuse boxes so I knocked on Kevin’s door. Kevin inspected the fuses and didn’t find anything. Since I was in my pjs and Kevin was only wearing a wash cloth (ok that is an exaggeration but it was a really small towel), I told Carol to get the security guard for help. Security comes up finds no problem and then tells Carol to follow him. The lights come on, Carol comes back. There was another fuse box downstairs. Then the doorbell rings. It’s the security guard and he wants a tip. Kevin and I get some rupees, no big deal. Carol is offended. “it’s his job, he gets paid for that”. Really Carol? FYI electrical work is not the job of security and 50 rupees is like $1.25. I have lights, money well spent.

Since today was a bit boring I figured I would share some unseen pictures.

Cricket game at the coconut stand

Moon Day!

The shala was closed today for the moon day so that meant a full day of being a tourist.

I slept in late, well late for Mysore. Then off to breakfast were Kevin and I met up with Caroline. We headed first to the Mall of Mysore. It is a modern mall with shops like The Body Shop and Benneton (spell check?) and then Indian brand stores. We found a shop with nice silver jewelry and I got myself an amethyst pendant.

On the way to the mall we passed through a part of town with homes that looked like they were made from mud bricks. We were in a rickshaw so I couldn’t get a good picture.

After the mall we rickshawed over to the zoo area so I could check out a handicrafts shop that was recommended in my search for a particular item I wanted to get as a gift fir John. The store was awesome. Statues, daggers, jewelry, etc. I was able to find something for John, not quite what I wanted but the thing I wanted to get is made of cement and not practical for transporting home so I found a good substitute.

After the craft store we headed back to the rickshaws so we could go see the original shala in Lakshipurim. We tell them where we want to go, even show a map that Kevin drew, and of course they act like they know where we want to go. The driver didn’t have a fucking clue. I love how they drive for a while before they let you know they don’t have a fucking clue. Kevin lost his patience. Another rickshaw driver with very good English came over to help, well help and then try to get us to go to a shop with him that would pay him a commission on our purchases. He told Kevin to have shanti (peace) because he was getting cross with the driver. He explained to the driver where to go and then was annoyed at us when we wouldn’t go tis friend’s shop.

So we did find the old shala! The sun was shining very bright so I basically have my eyes closed in all the pictures.

This may not seem exciting, but to hardcore ashtanga geeks it is! You can see the picture of Guruji through the barred window.

Next it was back to Gokalum for thali lunch and then Caroline and I went to a beauty shop called Subba’s for mendhi!

This is mine, waiting for the henna to dry. It took about an hour to apply and then we had to leave it on for two more hours. Good thing I peed before starting this process.

Here is Caroline’s. We picked out designs from a book and then the girl basically did her interpretation of what we wanted.

I had a raging headache, probably major dehydration, so as soon as I could I washed mine off so i could lay down in a dark room and rest my pounding head.

Here is what it looks like after the henna has cured.